cocoon stitch

Men should be explorers, no matter how old they are. I don’t know about anybody else, but I’m going.
Cocoon, the movie.  Said by the character Art Selwyn.


we’re working on a yoke collared cardigan that we haven’t as yet named.  we swatched up cocoon stitch to see how it might fit with the overall design, and it seems to be making the grade.

cocoon stitch is, in our opinion,  a fancy rib stitch that reminds us of the vertical drop stitch, except that raised bumps take the place of the dropped stitches.  the trickiest part of the stitch is the P5tog every few rows or so, but once you’ve got down it stitches up quite quickly!

YARN J&V Clever Camel
COLOUR Neat Navy
NEEDLE US9 / 5.5mm
SIZE (WxH) 6 (W) x 5 (L)”
STS 25 sts x 24 rows
LEVEL Intermediate
TYPE Knits & Purls; Fancy Rib, Textured Stitches

P5tog: purl 5 stitches together, most easily accomplished with the use of a crochet hook (slip 5 stitches purlwise onto a crochet hook, wrap yarn around purlwise, and pull crochet hook through)

M1: pick-up the horizontal piece of yarn between the st you just finished and the next st. place it on the left-hand needle, and knit this stitch.

M3: make 3 stitches (K1,P1,K1) by knitting and purling into the back and front of the same stitch


CO25 sts (mults of 8 sts + 1 repeat); knit flat.

R1 (WS): P1, *K1, P1, K5, P1, repeat from * to end
R2 (RS): K1, *P5, K1, P1, K1, repeat from * to end
R3: P1, *M1, M3, M1, P1, P5tog, P1, repeat from * to end
: K1, *P1, K1, P5, K1, repeat from * to end
: P1, *K5, P1, K1, P1, repeat from * to end
: repeat row 4
: repeat row 5
: repeat row 4
R9: P1, *P5tog, P1, M1, M3, M1, P1, repeat from * to end
R10: repeat row 2
R11: repeat row 1
R12: repeat row 2

Repeat rows 1-12 for the pattern. The swatch above was knit over 24 rows.

Crosby – a beanie for guys + girls

Matilda – a sideways knit yoke collared cardigan

5 thoughts on “cocoon stitch”

  1. I am having trouble with row 3, instead of using 8 sts, I am using 10 sts and I do not have enough at the end of that row, what am I doing wrong?

  2. You know how between two adjacent ovals there is a knit stitch, then a purl stitch, then another knit stitch? I get lots of holes in that area between the two ovals. I’ve tried using smaller needles and pulling the yarn tighter at that part, but it’s still very holey in between ovals. Any tips on how to tighten things up?

    1. hi mag! it’s supposed to be a bit holey, especially if the fabric is stretched out. if you let it relax, the holes dont’ show as much. also, the holes will be more obvious in certain types of yarns than others. the holes don’t show as much in yarns that have got “halo” like camel, cashmere, handspuns and certain types of wools. that said, you might be able to make the holes less obvious if you change the M1 stitch to a K1F&B (knit into the front and back of the same stitch). doing it this way will likely change the look of the stitch pattern but worth experimenting with if you want a less holey look. let us know if you do!

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